Bedroom Two
Flooring

Flooring

New modern flooring will be laid, consisting of structural particleboard sheet subfloors with 14 mm solid overlay boards over the top. The overlay board width will match the old but the species will probably be different. As far as I can determine the original flooring is Tallowwood, which has a Janka hardness rating of around 8.6. The new flooring will have a similar or higher rating.

Removing the old boards

1. Most of the replacement boards for the lounge came from this room.

The old oil heating vent was located under the window, cutting across several boards such that the short lengths of floor boards left cantilevered off the wall joist were collapsing. The new HVAC vent seen here was placed in the same location so I'm going to relocate it against and parallel to the wall were I'm standing.

2. Reverse angle. The HVAC floor vent will move from below the window to the corner with a 90 degree rotation

Levelling and other fixups

Two of the original 2 x 6 inch joists were too twisted to keep and a third joist against the window wall was about an inch less deep and so under spec for the span so was replaced as well. But then finding it difficult to level with the new joists in place I decided to replace another three joists that had sagged slightly. The six new joists are engineered LVL (laminated veneer lumber) 150 x 58 mm F17 (the same dimensions as the old solid hardwood) and are specified for single spanning the 3.6 metre width of the room (at 450 mm spacing). The joists around the fireplace were kept but additional support added and leveled.

Green Glue tape was applied to the top of all joists and trimmers before the particleboard sheets were laid down. As well as not being as permanent as construction adhesive, the tape system made this one-man operation a lot easier.

3. New galvanised steel pier

The joist ends next to the fireplace mantle leg (photo 3) were originally being supported by a hardwood pier (same dimensions as the joists), the bottom end of which was sitting directly on part of the stone foundations at ground level where the bottom 5 cm had almost completely rotted away. The photo shows the stirrup of the new galvanised steel pier the bottom of which is embedded in a new concrete footing. The joist is packed and levelled and then fixed with coach screws from the other side of the joist. For some reason the sill plate and supporting stonework was removed from this end of the hearth. Everywhere else in the building the joist ends are sitting on sill plates on a shelf that is part of the stone foundations.

Sub floor insulation and sheeting

4. Another autograph and date - this was a solid wall up until 1981 when it was opened up as the new entrance into bedroom 2

5. The room is just 60mm wider than four 900mm wide sheets of particleboard so I decided to insert the 60mm strip, properly tongued and grooved, down the centreline of the room rather than leave it to the edge.

6. Just two small areas remain to sheet either side of the fireplace, and a hatch has been included for underfloor access

7. Subfloor finished and closet removed.

New solid timber overlay

After acclimatizing for approximately three years stacked in the old classroom next door while other messy jobs were completed (new crown cornice, painting etc), it's now time to install the timber overlay. These planks are 130mm wide to match the original T&G flooring and are 14mm thick solid Sydney Blue Gum. The installation will be full trowel glued and secret nailed using 32mm flooring cleats. The glue is necessary because of the width and will also provide a vapour barrier and acoustic attenuation. The completed floor will be a 34mm total thickness lamination on top of stiffened joists and so should provide a nice solid feel under foot.

The sheeting was sanded all over with 60 grit paper using a small orbital sander to abraid the surface and remove mostly fine paint mist that had settled from the spaying of walls and ceiling. This is essential for the glue to bond properly. It took several hours to do the first two rooms and created a lot of very fine dust, so a mask was essential.

I started at the wall adjoining bedroom one because the floor continues through the joining doorway, which makes for a good point to continue into that next room. Because the tongue of the planks must face away from the starting wall to allow secret nailing I'll need to reverse direction into bedroom one and so the first plank there will go groove to groove, and having that occur in the doorway is convenient.

8. Dry fit of the first eight rows

9. Half of the through passage and first row down

10. Overlay completed

11. Completed unfinished floor

12. Completed unfinished floor

Hatch

To attach overlay to the hatch cover so as to completely blend in with the floor overlay I decided to simply run boards across the hatch opening with the cover removed and then cut the overlay out of the finished floor to fix it to the cover. The easiest way to do that accurately and cleanly was with a flush trim router bit using the hatch opening as the template but to do that I'd need to route a starting channel before completely overlaying the hatch opening.